We offer a variety of sods depending on where you are in California, from high elevation, valley floor or ocean breeze inlets.
There are two categories of grasses warm season and cool season. Which type is best for you will depend on your needs and personal preferences.
Warm season grass (Bermuda) goes dormant in the winter (turns brown) and requires less water than cool season grass. A few of these varieties are:
- Tifway (Hybrid Bermuda) – A medium to fine textured blade, high drought tolerance, disease tolerance, high traffic tolerance, quick recovery & heat tolerance and good for sports fields.
- St. Augustine – Medium green color with a course, thick -stemmed leaf and texture. Fast growing establishes quickly and very invasive. St. Augustine has excellent shade tolerance and is a durable thick, rough grass and wears like iron. Only available in Southern California.
Cool season grass stays green year-round and will need more water when compared to warm season grass. A few popular varieties are:
- Elite Plus – (Dwarf Fescue/Bluegrass Blend – Grows slower) – Has medium to coarse blades and year-round dark green color. High drought & high traffic tolerance. It will gradually repair minor damage over time without having to re-seed. Easy to care for and adapts well to the varied climates and soils of the west.
- Bolero Plus – (Dwarf Fescue/Bluegrass Blend) – A softer blade, year-round dark green color, high drought & high traffic tolerance, better density than Bolero due to Bluegrass, fast wear recovery and does not like a lot of shade.
Marathon II (Tall Fescue) – Medium to coarse texture, good for weekend activity levels, good injury recovery, medium dark green color year-round and can take up to 25% shade. Only available in Southern California.
SodLawn offers a variety of drought tolerant sods, and some of our sod types have been developed to require up to 30% less water. A warm season grass such as Bermuda is by far the most drought tolerant sod choice. Bermuda grasses have a deep root system that helps with the retention of water when it is restricted. This type of grass will go dormant in the winter (turns brown). If you want a lawn that is going to be green year-round and drought tolerant then a Fescue/Bluegrass blend is another good choice. While the Fescue/Bluegrass blend will require more water than Bermuda, it has been tested by the Turfgrass Water Conservation Alliance and received their stamp of approval proving to use significantly less water.
Water Star is a trademark of Pennington Seed given to qualified seed that has been tested by the Turfgrass Water Conservation Alliance (TWCA) and proven to use significantly less water. TWCA results are based on computer analysis of digital images, density, and green turf cover.
- The TWCA is a non-profit organization
- Provides testing to give the stamp of approval to drought resistant turfgrass varieties.
- Testing is done over a period of two years.
- After all data is collected and analyzed, the TWCA notifies Pennington Seed whether the seed is qualified.
Water Star qualified seed cannot only survive limited water availability but can also maintain overall plant health during drought conditions.
Different sods need different amounts of water to stay healthy and knowing your sod and soil type is key. Soil types can influence how long your soil will retain water, a heavy clay soil (clay will hold water) versus a sandy soil (sand won’t hold water). Keeping the lawn wet all the time can damage roots and growth, while letting your lawn dry out will cause damage as well. Find the balance between the two. Most modern sods and combinations of soil types can get away with every other day watering in high heat environments.
Watering your mature lawn during the winter months consists of “little” to “no” watering each week. With Bermuda grass you will not need to water at all during the winter months due to dormancy, unless you are overseeding the lawn with Rye grass for winter color. Fescue grass will still need little watering through the cooler seasons. Consider the weather, if you are getting rain then additional watering is not needed, but if there is no rain then we recommend you water your lawn. In the cooler season your lawn will need half of the water used in the warmer season. You can install a rain sensor on your clock or install a Wi-Fi connected controller with auto weather adjusting.
Ground Preparation is the most important part of installing new sod and is also the most work you will do for your new sod. After years of soil compaction, it is vital that the soil be broken up for the new sod roots to establish in.
Ground prep not only involves breaking up the soil, but also the removing of old sod and weeds. After rototilling, old debris, such as excess vegetation, tree roots and rocks, need to be raked out and the soil surface raked smooth to grade for installing new sod. Make sure that the grade is at least 1 inch below concrete patios or sidewalks for easy mowing and washing off the surfaces.
Most choose the method of spraying an herbicide on existing vegetation and allowing the herbicide to kill anything that is growing in the area. The area is then rototilled, and dead vegetation is raked out. After final grade is set a light compaction by water rolling by using a water roller (can be rented from a rental equipment yard) is recommended followed by a final leveling with a landscape rake. Once this is completed no irrigation or significant rain should occur to slow weed seed germination before sodding. It is best to lay the sod on dry soil conditions.
The last method of ground preparation is the use of a sod cutter. This can be rented from a local equipment rental yard. The old sod is cut out with some of the soil. The ground will still need to be rototilled and it is likely that you will have to import some topsoil to replace the soil that was removed with the existing sod. In the case of bringing excessive rocks up to the surface, topsoil is also sometimes required. Contact your local bulk material yard for what is available in your area.
Note, when adding topsoil or amendments to your area, the best way is to rototill the topsoil into your existing soil. Layering topsoil or amendments on top of existing soil is not as effective as incorporating your additives by rototilling all together. Grading is another important step in ground preparation. Your final grading will ensure that you will have good drainage. A landscape rake is a great tool for making the area perfect for your sod installation. A water roller will also help eliminate any air pockets in the soil to ensure that your sod has good contact with the soil.
What is aeration? Aeration alleviates soil compaction and increases the flow of oxygen, water, and nutrients to roots by creating ½” holes in the lawn. Aeration helps the lawn roots to grow deeper into the soil, which then creates stronger roots. The deeper your roots grow the more drought tolerant your lawn will be. Typically, you want to aerate the lawn when your grass is in the peak growing period so it can recover quickly. For cool season grasses like Fescue, you will want to aerate in the spring or fall. For the warm season grasses like Bermuda, you will want to aerate in the late spring through the summer. A Core aerator or a steel spike aerator are the two types of machines to aerate the lawn. Spike aerators punch holes in your lawn as you go, while core aerators work to remove grass and soil plugs. Whichever machine you use, go completely over the lawn twice, once in one direction, and then in a perpendicular direction for optimal results.
We will deliver your order curbside, to the closest available area of the delivery address provided as we can get, unless otherwise specified. We do not guarantee the location of delivery if we do not have 10’ wide access to desired location. If you would like the delivery made on the property with the forklift, a release of liability must be signed and sent in no later than 11 a.m. on the day before delivery. If this deadline is missed and you would like to wait for the driver to show up, then you are able to sign a release of liability at the time of delivery. The driver won’t call or contact the customer at the time of delivery.
If you have any additional questions about Sodlawn’s delivery policies and procedures, please don’t hesitate to give us a call. We strive to keep our customers well informed of their order status and our delivery service. Find out more or discuss your specific delivery needs with us by calling 888-763-5296 today.
For most orders, the delivery trucks are approximately 60’ long. The trucks are heavy and are built to haul heavy loads. There are many areas where a truck of this size cannot safely stop and deliver sod. We try not to hinder the flow of traffic. These large trucks have an oversized forklift “piggyback” on the back of the truck.
Two of the six farms we deliver from have a smaller truck called a “bobtail” to deliver sod down narrow streets, and mountainous roads. The “bobtail” truck is shorter, only about 32’ in length. There is a fee to use these smaller sized trucks, but it is a bargain, when you think of having to drive to the farm yourself, pick up the sod, drive back home and then unload your vehicle.
This type of truck can deliver anywhere in Northern California. However, there are some cities that restrict large delivery trucks by ordinance, and this may occur in your jurisdiction.
A waiver is a release of liability to go onto private property. Your driveway and sidewalks are considered private property. Customers must understand this is a heavy forklift and pallet of sod going over concrete driveways and sidewalks. The sod farms are not in the business of driveway repairs when they are cracked due to excessive weight.
As mentioned, the waiver is a release of liability the customer must give to the sod farms to deliver sod on private property. Deliveries are usually delivered curbside in front of the jobsite, on the street, not on the sidewalk. We can accommodate requests for a driveway drop with a waiver. Sod may be put into the backyard on request with a waiver, and if there is a gate or opening 10’ wide. Again, remember that the forklift and pallet of sod is heavy and could leave ruts in your graded soil. Be careful what you request. Customer must also be on site to open the gate on delivery and spot the driver where to place the pallet of sod. We cannot be responsible for pets making their “great escape” when the gates are opened.
Your soil should be leveled, dry and ready to lay sod down before the sod arrives. After you have rototilled you can use a water roller to help with compaction and use a landscape rake to level out the soil and make the surface smooth. Leave a bit of a crown in the center so that water will drain towards the outer edges during watering and wet season. Keep the soil dry to keep from working in a muddy environment. When temperatures are over 90 degrees you can lightly mist the soil before installing.
When the sod is delivered, install it THE VERY DAY it arrives. The most important thing you should be aware of while laying the sod is making sure the seams are butted up nice and tight together, no gaps. Staggering the seams on each row helps too, like a brick pattern. This also is the last time you will be walking on the sod for 14 days. That includes pets.
The clock is ticking once the sod has been delivered. Sod needs water soon after delivery. Our advice is to lay the sod down the day you receive it. Watering the sod while rolled up on the pallet can damage the sod (a light misting is ok). During the summer months, the rolled sod is warm, and pouring water on the rolls can “steam” the sod. When you have too much heat and moisture fungus can occur.
Fertilizing is an important step to your new lawn’s health and establishment. We suggest that you put down an all-purpose fertilizer onto the bare ground before you lay the sod. Fertilizing your bare ground helps with instant contact for the roots to absorb nutrients and promotes establishment. We recommend using Triple 15 (15.15.15) or Triple 16 (16.16.16) many stores have this type of fertilizer available. We recommend fertilizing your lawn every 2-3 months during the growing season depending on the health of your lawn. When spreading fertilizer, you will want to use a broadcast spreader and use 1 lb. per 100 square feet.
After your sod is laid down you want to give the sod a good soaking. The water needs to go through the sod and down into the soil 2-3”. The best way to get an even soak is with an irrigation system. This step is very important to having a healthy start to establishing your new lawn.
- When temperatures are above 90 degrees you can lightly mist the soil while installing the sod to help cool down the soil.
- When temperatures are cooler you do not need to wet the soil before or during the installation of your sod.
The next 2 weeks are critical to maintain a healthy and fully established lawn. Keep in mind that your new lawn will need some TLC to get established. Sod is a live plant and is perishable and will need proper watering to maintain its health.
You will need to keep your sod moist, not like a swamp, but evenly moist like a wet sponge that has been wrung out. Water your sod 2-3 times a day for 14 days. More water may be needed if you have wind or excessive heat. Water only in the morning and early afternoon during this time. This is when a customer may run into trouble, just remember you need to adjust, adjust, adjust according to current weather conditions.
You will also need to keep all foot traffic off your lawn until established, this does include your pets. Moist sod is not like memory foam and will not bounce back when pressure is applied. The purpose of this is to maintain an even grade. Foot traffic on newly laid sod is like walking on freshly poured concrete.
The first time you mow your new sod is when the sod has rooted enough to not lift up when pulled on. This usually occurs after 2 weeks of daily watering. When you are getting ready to mow, turn your irrigation system off for at least 1-2 days so that the soil can firm up and not be too soft for mowing. Soil that is too soft will leave wheel ruts. The second thing you do is raise your lawn mower to the highest setting, The first mowing will be just a trim off the top. Each consecutive mowing you can lower the mower until you reach your desired height. Never mow off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass, this may scalp your lawn and damage it.
Too much water during the summer months can cause lawn disease. Fungus is the most common problem. Always water your lawn at the coolest part of the day. We recommend 2 A.M. With the warmer weather you may need longer watering schedules due to the evaporation.
If you do not have an irrigation clock, you can irrigate as early in the morning as possible. By watering in the hottest times of the day your lawn may not get the amount of hydration it needs to survive due to quick evaporation. With afternoon watering you pose a higher risk for fungus, high heat and moisture are the main causes of lawn disease and fungus.
Lawn fungus is a common disease. Fungus usually occurs when there is excessive water on the lawn and high temperatures. Early night watering is the ideal conditions for lawn fungus to grow, 6 p.m. to 12 a.m. When the temperatures are high during the day the soil stays warm into the night then when you add water with no evaporation you have humid conditions for fungus growth.
It is important to diagnose your lawn’s fungus problem quickly as fungus can take over a lawn in a few days. Most often a trip to your local garden shop or hardware store will provide you with a fungicide to retard its progress and allow your lawn to recover. Be mindful that sometimes a professional licensed sprayer is required if your efforts aren’t successful. Here are a few of the most common lawn diseases to look out for in your lawn.
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Brown Patch is caused by Rhizoctonia fungi, this is one of the most common lawn diseases, seen mostly in cool season grasses, but can also affect warm season grasses. This disease becomes most active when evening temperatures in the summer reach above 65 degrees. -
Pink Snow Mold will become matted or turn straw color and form a white or pink colored cobweb like coat. This disease generally occurs winter thru the early spring. Pink snow mold thrives in cool and humid conditions. -
Slime Mold coats your grass in a greyish material that is slimy when wet. Slime mold is not overly harmful to your lawn, but it creates discoloration that will stand out. -
Dog Spot is not a fungus but often mistaken for a fungus. Dog spots occur with too much dog urine in one area. Dog urine is high in nitrogen as well as salt. This is equivalent to fertilizer burn from over fertilizing your lawn.
There are several different types of insects that can cause damage to your lawn including but not limited to root, crown, and leaf feeding caterpillars, grubs, larvae of beetles (read more), white grubs, billbugs, and cinch bugs. Identifying which insect(s) are invading your lawn is the first step, and then applying the appropriate insecticide to eliminate the pests.
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Grubs feed on the roots of lawn grasses, often creating irregular patches of brown, dying grass by late summer and fall. If you dig up a piece of the dying grass this will reveal white or yellowish C-shaped grubs. Read More -
Billbugs create brown dead patches and irregularly shaped bare areas on the soil like grub damage. -
Cinch Bugs create spots in the lawn or scattered areas of grass in your lawn that look dead or dry. These areas will spread and merge into larger areas. Cinch bug damage can often look like drought stress or go unnoticed at first.
Maintenance of your lawn is an ongoing process. To maintain your lawn correctly you will need to have proper irrigation, fertilization, pre-emergent, and post emergent to maintain weeds. This process will help your lawn to flourish and maintain a healthy life.
A proper maintenance schedule after your lawn has been installed and established is key to a healthy, happy lawn. Not only do you need to regularly water and mow your lawn, but there are also several year-round considerations to maintaining your lawn as well.
- Fertilization – Applying fertilizer will provide the nutrients needed to give your lawn a healthy look all year round and weeds to a minimum. Fertilizing can be applied every 8 to 10 weeks.
Weed Control – Growing healthy grass is the best way to control weeds (read more). Weeds come from seeds that have lain dormant in the ground or have been carried in by the wind or birds. Applying pre-emergent can be used in the late winter/early spring to keep crabgrass, spurge, and other weeds from growing in your lawn. Post-emergent (read more) can be used to remove weeds like clover or nutsedge that pop up throughout the year (read more).